End of summer: how to prepare your plants for coming back indoors and the first chills (step-by-step calendar)
You wake up one morning in late August and sense that first subtle hint of coolness in the air, announcing the end of summer. Your plants, which have enjoyed the sun and warmth on the terrace or in the garden for months, now need special attention. Bringing them indoors is not simply a matter of moving them, but a true transition protocol that, if managed correctly, will prevent stress and problems. This guide will provide you with a detailed schedule, week by week, from August 20 to September 30, with all the steps needed to prepare your plants for the change of season and the first cool autumn days. Following these steps will ensure a smooth transition and optimal health in the months ahead. In the collection of indoor plants, you will find the current selection.
Action schedule: what to do week by week (August 20 – September 30)
The late-summer transition for plants lasts about 6 weeks, from August 20 to September 30. Reduce fertilization, inspect for pests, gradually acclimate them to lower light, and bring them indoors only while the heating is still off, to avoid thermal shock. This schedule will guide you step by step, ensuring optimal preparation.
During this period, the key word is gradualness. Imagine your plants as travelers preparing for a long winter: they need time to adapt. Every week counts toward mitigating the shock of being brought indoors and ensuring that your plants cope as well as possible with the change of season. A good starting point is to review your July greenery calendar to understand where your plants are coming from.
For plants that have spent the summer outdoors, the transition from the outside environment, with its abundant light and ventilation, to the more static and less bright indoors can be traumatic. Our growers recommend observing each specimen carefully. Reducing fertilization is crucial: the supply of nutrients must decrease as the plant slows its metabolism. If you continue fertilizing with the same frequency and dose used in summer, you could stimulate weak, vulnerable growth.
Inspecting for pests is a step that should never be underestimated. Mealybugs, spider mites or aphids can hide under leaves or in the crevices of stems. Thorough cleaning with a damp cloth and, if necessary, applying a natural insecticide will save you from future infestations indoors. Remember, plants that have endured the summer heat, such as those mentioned in our article on heat-resistant plants for August, may have accumulated more stress and therefore require an even more thorough inspection.
The transition area, such as an unheated veranda or covered balcony, provides an ideal intermediate environment. Here, plants can acclimatize to less extreme light and temperature conditions than those inside a heated home. This 1-2 week step is essential for more delicate species. Only when nighttime temperatures consistently approach 10-12°C, and the home heating is not yet on, is it time to bring them permanently indoors. This is also the right time to think about how you will arrange your plants for your home office.
The 4 houseplants most sensitive to the shock of being brought indoors (and how to care for them)
The four houseplants most sensitive to the shock of being brought indoors are Calathea Sanderiana, Monstera deliciosa, variegated Hoya kerrii and Philodendron Birkin. To care for them, provide indirect light, reduced watering, stable humidity, no cold drafts, and a gradual move between the end of August and the third week of September.
Some houseplants react more strongly to the stress of being brought indoors, showing symptoms such as yellowing or drooping leaves due to fluctuations in temperature and light. Managing them carefully is crucial for their health.
Calathea Sanderiana
Symptom: The leaves curl or develop dry tips and scorched edges. Calathea (Goeppertia ornata) is notoriously sensitive to fluctuations in humidity and drafts.
Preventive action: Place it in a transition area with indirect light and high humidity (60-70%). Mist the leaves daily with distilled or rainwater. Consider using a humidifier or a saucer filled with damp expanded clay pebbles.
Timing: Start moving it gradually as early as late August, bringing it indoors permanently during the first two weeks of September.
Monstera deliciosa
Symptom: The large leaves may turn yellow, especially older ones, or develop brown spots. This often indicates water or light shock.
Preventive action: Gradually reduce watering, allowing the top 5 cm of potting soil to dry out between waterings. Make sure it receives plenty of bright, indirect light, but no direct light. Avoid repotting unless strictly necessary, to prevent adding further stress.
Timing: Start reducing direct sun exposure in early September, bringing it indoors permanently by mid-September.
Variegated Hoya kerrii
Symptom: The heart-shaped leaves may lose their variegation or develop dark spots. It is highly susceptible to cold and overwatering.
Preventive action: Make sure the temperature does not fall below 15°C. Drastically reduce watering, watering only when the potting soil is completely dry. Provide bright but indirect light to maintain its variegation.
Timing: Bring this plant indoors between late August and early September, before nighttime temperatures drop too low.
Philodendron Birkin
Symptom: New leaves may emerge small or deformed, while existing leaves may lose their characteristic light variegation and become greener. It is sensitive to fluctuations in humidity and light.
Preventive action: Maintain constant humidity around 50-60%. Place it in a location with plenty of indirect light. Avoid cold drafts. Check drainage to prevent waterlogging.
Timing: Move Philodendron Birkin (Philodendron 'Birkin') to a sheltered area in early September, bringing it indoors by the third week of the month.
These plants, with their unique beauty, require special attention during the transition period. A little extra effort at the end of summer will reward you with lush, healthy plants throughout the winter. Our nursery growers have noticed that daily observation can make all the difference in spotting the first signs of stress.
Discover our plants
The 4 terrace plants that require specific care at the end of summer
The four terrace plants that require specific care at the end of summer are oleander, dipladenia, Callistemon Red Rocket, and Eucalyptus gunnii. For all of them, watering should be reduced as autumn arrives; cold tolerance varies, however: dipladenia should be protected when nighttime lows approach 10°C, while eucalyptus can tolerate temperatures down to -15°C if well rooted in the ground.
Terrace plants, accustomed to full sun and good air circulation, require targeted care at the end of summer to prepare for moving indoors or overwintering outdoors, especially Mediterranean species.
Oleander (Nerium oleander)
What to do: Gradually reduce watering starting from mid-September, especially if it is in a pot. Lightly prune to remove faded flowers and shape the plant, but avoid drastic pruning, which would stimulate weak new growth. Protect the roots of potted plants with mulch or move the pot to a sheltered area if temperatures drop below 5°C.
What NOT to do: Do not fertilize after the end of August. Do not prune heavily in September, as the plant needs to focus its energy on preparing for winter dormancy. Avoid standing water in the saucer.
Dipladenia (Mandevilla spp.)
What to do: Reduce watering as temperatures drop. Dipladenia (Mandevilla spp.) is sensitive to cold, so be prepared to move it to a sheltered location (e.g., a cool greenhouse or a bright stairwell) when nighttime lows approach 10°C. You can lightly prune it to contain its shape before bringing it indoors.
What NOT to do: Do not leave it outdoors if temperatures drop below 5°C, as it will suffer irreversible damage. Do not overwater during the dormant period to prevent root rot.
Callistemon Red Rocket
What to do: This plant is more cold-hardy than the previous ones, but if it is in a pot and in areas with harsh winters (below -5°C), it is advisable to protect it. You can wrap the pot with insulating material or move it against a sheltered wall. Reduce watering in autumn.
What NOT to do: Do not worry about a few yellowing leaves; this is normal preparation for winter. Avoid drastic pruning in late summer; wait until spring for more vigorous maintenance pruning.
Eucalyptus Gunnii
What to do: Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus gunnii) is a hardy plant and tolerates cold well, even down to -15°C when well established in the ground. If it is in a pot, make sure drainage is excellent and that the pot is an appropriate size. Reduce watering in autumn. It does not need protection unless the winter is exceptionally harsh.
What NOT to do: Do not fertilize in late summer, as growth will naturally slow down. Do not worry about the first cold spells; this plant is accustomed to harsher climates. If the leaves turn reddish, it is a normal reaction to the cold, not a sign of stress.
Each species has its own specific needs, but the common thread is always observation and gradual adjustment. With the right late-summer care, plants will continue to enhance your spaces for many years.
Repotting stress: 5 signs to recognize immediately
The five signs of repotting stress are yellowing young leaves, dry tips and edges, drooping or limp leaves, brown or dark spots, and small white dots or fine webs. They indicate problems with watering, light, humidity, temperature fluctuations, or the presence of pests.
Plants communicate their distress through clear visual signs. Recognizing these symptoms of repotting stress promptly is essential to act quickly and save the plant from more serious damage.
- New yellow leaves: If the younger leaves turn yellow, this could indicate overwatering or insufficient light, both common when moving a plant from outdoors indoors.
- Dry leaf tips and edges: This is often a sign of low ambient humidity, typical of heated indoor environments.
- Drooping or limp leaves: This may be due to thermal shock, too much or too little water, or simply an adjustment to lower light intensity.
- Brown or dark spots on the leaves: They often indicate sunburn (if the plant was exposed too quickly to direct sunlight after being brought back indoors) or, conversely, root rot caused by overwatering.
- Small white dots or fine webs: These are clear indicators of pests such as mealybugs or spider mites, which take advantage of the plant's stress to proliferate.
How can you tell if a plant is suffering from back-to-home stress? Careful observation is key. Any change in the color, texture, or falling of the leaves can be a warning sign. Never underestimate these signs, because early intervention can make all the difference. For example, a Calathea Sanderiana with curled leaves is a clear sign of low humidity, while a Monstera (Monstera deliciosa) with yellow, limp leaves may be suffering from overwatering.
Late-summer repotting: who should and should not do it
Can plants be repotted in September? The answer is yes, but with care. Late-summer repotting is a delicate operation that should only be carried out if strictly necessary, so as not to place additional stress on the plant before winter.
Repot if:
- The roots are growing out of the pot's drainage holes.
- The plant has stopped growing and the growing medium is completely depleted.
- The potting mix is compacted and no longer absorbs water properly.
- You have bought a new plant and the pot is clearly too small for its size.
In these cases, repotting should take place between the end of August and the third week of September, giving the plant time to settle before vegetative growth slows down. Use a pot just one size larger and a high-quality potting mix specific to your plant's needs.
Do not repot if:
- The plant is visibly stressed or diseased.
- There are no obvious signs of root distress.
- The plant is in full bloom or about to bloom.
- You do not have time to carry out the task with the necessary calm and care.
In these situations, it is better to postpone repotting until the following spring, when the plant will resume its growth cycle with more energy. Unnecessary or poorly executed repotting can cause even greater shock, compromising the plant's health throughout the winter.
Our gardening tip: For effective repotting, always choose a high-quality growing medium. Our nursery specialists recommend a well-draining universal potting mix enriched with perlite or pumice. If the plant requires it, as with orchids or acid-loving plants, opt for a specific growing medium. This is the ideal time to explore our TerraFlora potting mix collection, formulated to ensure optimal root health.
What NOT to do in late summer (mistakes you'll pay for in October)
In late summer, do not bring plants indoors too early, fertilize them with summer doses, skip pest inspections, repot them without necessity, overwater them, or place them immediately near radiators and heaters: these are the mistakes that cause problems visible in October, from root rot to indoor infestations.
Avoiding some common mistakes in late summer is just as important as following the right practices. These mistakes can compromise your plants' health and cause problems that will become especially apparent in October.
- Do not bring plants indoors too early: Waiting until nighttime temperatures consistently drop below 10-12°C, while the heating at home is still off, is crucial. Bringing them indoors earlier exposes them to an environment that is too warm and dry, causing shock.
- Do not fertilize with summer doses: Plants are slowing their metabolism. Continuing to provide excess nutrients stimulates weak growth and makes them more vulnerable to diseases and pests.
- Do not neglect pest inspection: Skipping this step means bringing scale insects, spider mites, or other insects indoors, where they will multiply rapidly in protected indoor environments.
- Do not repot without necessity: Repotting is stressful. If the plant does not urgently require it, postpone the operation until spring.
- Do not overwater: As temperatures drop and light decreases, plants use less water. Excess water is the main cause of root rot in autumn.
- Do not place them near heat sources immediately: Once brought indoors, plants should not be placed immediately near radiators or heaters. Hot, dry air is highly stressful.
These mistakes, although common, can have significant consequences. Our nursery experts have seen many plants suffer because of a rushed move indoors or incorrect watering management. Remember, patience and observation are your best allies during this transition period. Which plants are most sensitive to the late-summer temperature change? Generally, tropical plants, such as Calatheas and Ficus, which need stable humidity and temperatures.
The practical kit for the late-summer transition
The late-summer transition kit includes quality potting soil for any repotting, sharp, disinfected scissors for cleaning and light pruning, a soft cloth, a mister for distilled water, a watering can with a narrow spout for controlled watering, and wide saucers with expanded clay to maintain humidity.
To best manage bringing your plants back indoors, having the right tools close at hand makes all the difference. It's not just about products, but true allies for the well-being of your green friends.
First of all, potting soil. If you have decided to repot some plants, a quality substrate is essential. The TerraFlora line offers specific mixes for every need, ensuring proper drainage and nutrient supply. Good potting soil is the foundation of a healthy, resilient plant.
For cleaning and light pruning, ToolsFlora tools are indispensable. Sharp, disinfected scissors prevent diseases and allow clean cuts. A soft cloth and a mister for distilled water will help you keep the leaves clean and maintain the necessary humidity.
Transition watering requires precision. AcquaFlora watering cans, with their ergonomic design and slender spouts, allow you to dispense water gently, avoiding excess that could cause root rot. Remember that plants at the end of summer need less water than during the warmer months.
Finally, don't forget accessories for environmental well-being. Large saucers with a layer of expanded clay will maintain constant humidity around the plant. The ceramics from Le Officine dei Giardini di Giulia, besides being aesthetically pleasing, offer pots with excellent drainage, essential for root health. For a touch of design and functionality, also consider items such as the Rectangular Stabilized Moss and Lichen Picture or the Mini Stabilized Moss and Lichen Picture 14.5x24.5 cm – Black Frame | Made in Italy, adding greenery without maintenance.
Frequently asked question from our customers: Many people ask us whether it is necessary to buy new pots. The answer is: only if the current pot is too small or damaged. Otherwise, thorough cleaning and checking the drainage are sufficient. Our Made in Italy ceramics, such as those from Le Officine dei Giardini di Giulia, are designed to last over time and provide the best environment for your plants.
Frequently asked questions
When should you bring plants indoors from the balcony?
The final move of plants back indoors from the balcony should take place between the end of September and the beginning of October, when nighttime temperatures consistently fall below 10-12°C. It is essential that the home heating is still switched off to avoid thermal shock. Plan a 2-3 week transition period in an intermediate environment, such as a veranda or covered balcony, to help them adapt gradually.
What should you do to houseplants before bringing them indoors?
Before bringing them indoors, it is essential to gradually reduce fertilization starting from the end of August and carefully inspect the plants for pests. Clean the leaves with a damp cloth and, if necessary, treat them with natural products. Move the plants to a transition area with indirect light to help them adjust to their new environment, reducing the stress of moving them indoors.
Which plants are most sensitive to temperature fluctuations at the end of summer?
Tropical plants are the most sensitive to temperature fluctuations at the end of summer. Species such as Calathea, Monstera, Hoya, Philodendron, and Ficus may develop yellow, drooping, or curled leaves. They need an environment with consistent humidity and stable temperatures. A gradual move indoors and careful watering management are crucial for these delicate plants.
Can plants be repotted in September?
Yes, plants can be repotted in September, but only if strictly necessary and preferably by the third week of the month. This period allows the plant to settle into the new substrate before the onset of winter dormancy. Avoid repotting if the plant is stressed or flowering, and postpone the operation until the following spring to minimize the risk of shock.
Why do my plants have yellow leaves at the end of August?
Yellow leaves at the end of August can indicate several stress factors related to the transition. It could be overwatering due to falling temperatures, a lack of light, or temperature shock. Nutrient depletion in the potting soil or the presence of pests can also cause this symptom. Careful observation and targeted intervention are essential.
When should you stop fertilizing plants at the end of summer?
You should start reducing plant fertilization from the end of August, decreasing the doses by 50% for the first week and then stopping fertilizer application completely by the end of September. This prepares the plant for the slowdown of its growing cycle and winter dormancy. You can resume fertilizing when spring arrives.
We hope this detailed calendar will help you manage your plants at the end of summer. Save or print this guide so you always have it close at hand. Remember, your plants' well-being depends on your attention and your ability to anticipate their needs. Explore our selection of TerraFlora potting soils and ToolsFlora tools to have everything you need. Our young team of nursery experts is always available for advice and support. Visit I Giardini di Giulia to discover the best in greenery.
